Robin Hood steals SAFW Menswear Scout title
By Ludwig Spies The development of strong menswear labels is a notoriously difficult task. In the past, newcomer designers were unlikely to try and enter the fashion industry with menswear collections; it was seen as a conservative category, full of constraints resulting from social and gender conventions. Now, however, it’s the branch of fashion where the most exciting experimentation occurs, and it’s not just about boys in dresses. Trousers, shorts, shirts, suits – all the conventional garment and ensemble types – have experienced reinterpretation and innovation. Henni de Kock from Rogue Wear The SAFW Menswear Scout Competition was launched last year to much celebration, and the second installment at the AW showing this year did not disappoint, with the collections taking note of international movements without simply copying and reproducing established international brands. The winner’s title went to Henni de Kock from Rogue Wear, whose total prize package is R85 000 and includes show slots at SAFW SS16/17 and representation by The Fashion Agent. Read about all the Scout shows below. For contact and stockist information, please follow the links included. INFLUENCED (INF) by Tristan Bain Venn 1-WORD-DESCRIPTION: Metamaterials DESIGN: 10/10 INNOVATION: 9/10 WEARABILITY: 10/10 Tristan Bain Venn truly realised the name of her brand with a collection that clearly exhibited its inspirations. Metallic sheen, polymer textures and basic geometric proportions conjured up images of futuristic/sci-fi aesthetics, utility wear and functional South and East Asian garments. Bell chose to use neither embellishments nor busy patterns. Instead, her cuts allowed the full drama of the exciting fabrics to unfold. By means of clever design and execution, the fundamental and functional parts of the garments – clamp studs, clasps, collars, drawstrings, stitching and seams – provided each item with characteristic and definitive detail. The collection was simply a triumph of minimalist elegance; sexy like cool metal. Facebook: INFLUENCED AGEO by Arnold Phasha 1-WORD-DESCRIPTION: Oceanic DESIGN: 5/10 INNOVATION: 7/10 WEARABILITY: 6/10 This collection appeared to be inspired by traditional male garments from native South American, North African, Middle-Eastern and Central Asian cultures. The thick knitwear in rough textures particularly evoked images of traditional Afghan attire, while the long cloaks, robes and large-volume scarves granted a certain solemn, ecclesiastical quality to the collection. Although the collection comprised individual garments that were elegantly executed and possessed stimulating detail, it was collectively somewhat lackluster. In some garments the fabric seemed to have reacted unfavourably to the stitching, others lacked shape and some of the textures appeared unattractive. Even the colour palette was questionable, which made one question whether they were in fact designed with a collection in mind. Facebook: AGEO RIP ‘N...
SA Fashion Week AW16 – Combining Rugby and Fashion
Ludwig Spies Fashion shows are notorious for running late. In September 2007 guests waited two hours for a Marc Jacobs show to start. An enraged Suzy Menkes, fashion critic at The International Herald Tribune, declared her desire to murder the designer with her bare hands and said she never wanted see another of his shows again. To understand fully poor Suzy’s frustration, one should remember that while attending a Marc Jacobs show in 1991 a piece of the venue’s ceiling crashed down on her. At this year’s SAFW AW16, the Scouting Menswear show scheduled for 6PM was also delayed. In this case, however, it was not due to designer faffing or late models. Someone had arranged to stream ‘n screen the Rugby World Cup semi-final match between South Africa and New Zealand on the runway backdrop, and a wise decision was made not to cut the screening before the end of the game. There was something rather amusing about a tent full of ‘fashion people’ not only watching, but rowdily cheering, a Springbok rugby match. Josh Patner, former assistant designer at Donna Karan and co-founder of Tuleh, regularly answers questions about fashion week in Slate Magazine’s build-up to New York Fashion Week. In one article he says that fashion is both democratic and exclusive. At the major international fashion weeks, entry to all shows is by invitation only, and scandal erupted when it emerged that buyers and PR people were selling their passes online to the general public. How fortunate then that we were able to purchase tickets legitimately for SAFW, and for under R200 at that. There is a definite philosophy of accessibility at SAFW. It is evident amongst the designers, media-relations staff, new talent initiatives and – most clearly – a large group of people with ‘General Standing’ tickets. These are the people (us included) who have to wait for all the other guests to enter and sit down. They have to squeeze together – in heels and elaborate outfits – and crane their necks to see as much as possible. If they’re lucky, there may be some seats open in the back rows. They are undeterred, however, and fabulously so. Before the show they mingle in the reception area with the professionals and the influencers. They ask questions and take selfies with their idols, which means a lot to an aspiring fashion professional. SAFW has been flourishing steadily for the past 19 years. If people initially doubted the necessity or potential of the initiative, its growing legitimacy and appeal must have convinced them otherwise by now. As SAFW continues to develop, however, one just hopes that...
Finding art and soul in Hoedspruit’s Imbizo Gallery
By Ludwig Spies The Limpopo Lowveld may not immediately come to mind as a centre of culture creation, but those familiar with the region will tell you that exciting things are happening. Geoffrey Craig-Cooper, art consultant at Imbizo Gallery in the Lowveld town of Hoedspruit, says things have certainly changed. No longer a one-horse town, Hoedspruit is now a fashionable destination featuring wildlife estates, small winter festivals and pleasant local eateries. Guests enjoyed a diverse selection of abstract, contemporary, and wildlife pieces. “You know the day I thought ‘things are really starting to look up’? It was when they got rid of the golfball glasses. Do you know what I’m talking about? “Those short small wine glasses that you see at weddings and corporate functions? “Well, the day I sat down in a restaurant in Hoedspruit, and they gave me a beautiful long-stemmed glass with a large open rim, from which I could actually drink the wine, I knew things had changed.” Smalltown Art Lovers “Into Thin Air” – exuberant Art Nouveau bronze by Marke Meyer. The gallery in Hoedspruit is the second of its kind. The first Imbizo was established in Ballito in 2008 by Isabel Roos, a former plant pathologist and university lecturer. The new gallery is a partnership between her, Cooper-Craig, and resident artist Vanessa Lomas. Opening an art gallery in a small Limpopo town may seem risky but Geoffrey explains that there has always been a strong need in Hoedspruit for artistic and cultural supply. He cautions that small towns should not be underestimated. Roos echoes this. Miriam the Sheep, the official mascot of Hermanuspietersfontein Wine Estate. “Sometimes these older Afrikaans ooms walk into the gallery with their families and you sort of brace yourself for the reaction you’re going to receive after he sees one of Marke Meyer’s nude bronzes. And you know what? The exact opposite happens. They love the work.” But is this hamlet’s love of art matched by its buying power? The answer is a very definite yes. Thanks to a clever business model that targets the local, tourist and expatriate markets, Imbizo is doing well despite the current economy. Roos’s dream is to create something of an art distribution network that sees work flowing from and to different places in Africa. With this vision in mind, the name Imbizo (Zulu for “gathering” or “coming together”) is more than apt. To this end, the Imbizo Hoedspruit Arts Fusion Weekend ran from 1 to 4 October this year, with exhibitors at the event showcasing a wide range of genres. Sculpture, Painting & Photography Elegantly macabre, “Sangoma” by Tony Riley. Marke Meyer’s...
AFRIPOP! is now on Apple Music!
Listeners in Africa can now hear music curated by Afripop’s team of music experts on Apple Music. How rad? Global African pop culture site AFRIPOP! joins a group of select curators on Apple Music, and members in Africa can now access regularly updated playlists of music carefully chosen by a team of music tastemakers, led by editor Phiona Okumu. A long-standing champion for urban African music on the continent, as well as in the UK and the US, AfriPOP! will continue in its music-forward tradition, making sure that the best, most relevant and deserving sounds from Africa and the Diaspora get heard worldwide. “When you look back on what happened when Drake jumped on and played Wizkid’s song Ojuelegba on his Beats 1 show, you realize the potential for impact when the right songs get into the right hands. Literally, anyone has a chance at the big time because of the levelling effect of digital. I can’t think of a more exciting time to be involved in pushing music than right now!” says Phiona Okumu, AfriPOP! Editor. Read all about it here ...
Are The Jakes Missing?
Janice and Donald Jakes have fallen out of love and into Witness Protection. Being at the wrong place at the wrong time sends a teenage boy and his parents to a journey where they will rediscover what it means to love each other. Simon Jakes is teenage boy obsessed with music. His parents now living in modern day society of riches and wealth are also strict about the life their son leads and do not approve of his musical interest, unless classical. Janice and Donald Jakes (Simon’s parents) are at a crossroads, Janice wants to leave this relationship and Donald has been so busy at work he hasn’t noticed his wife hates him and wants to leave. One night, while supposedly being grounded, Simon sneaks out to a music event that could possible change his career forever. However it changes his life forever as he becomes the witness to a murder and escapes the crime scene with the one thing the criminals are willing to kill for. This movie promises to be another great South African film telling authentic local stories. The movie will be released on Friday 23 October 2015, be sure not to miss it at your local...
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