The SA Fashion Week SS16 Collections – Part 5: Scouting Menswear in Association with GQ Magazine
Words by Ludwig Spies Photography by Simone Oranje Additional photo edits by Stuart Hendricks The common problem with fashion writing is that we either overlook the most brilliantly conceived and painstakingly produced elements of a collection – or we ramble on, praising, criticising, fainting and gasping to a point where it’s no longer clear whether we’re talking about coats, shoes or an obscure branch of 19th Century philosophy. So we set ourselves this challenge for the SAFW SS16 Collections: reveal the essence of each collection – in less than 50 words. Floyd Avenue SS16 The winner of SS16 Scouting Menswear presented a relaxed collection of manzanilla-toned khaki. Apart from some Indian silhouettes, the palette, overall-style suits and leather strap harness details are solidly located in the safari trunk of a gentleman explorer. Hombré SS16 Poison green, black and snakeskin warn onlookers that a bite from a boy who wears this collection will take you down in 10 minutes. Dangerous, seductive and slick. Non-European SS16 The calm silhouettes and light fabrics contain hints of Asia and Africa, but the collection strongly hearkens back to North America before the arrival of Europeans. Feather accoutrements, and bead and embroidery detail around the collars adorn the garments with a dreamy, mythic quality. Zamaswazi SS16 Zooty blocks and strips of colour, pleats, grid patterning, and unusual Springbok skin detail offer the perfect ensemble to the modern dandy. It’s uptown funk with a slightly inflated ego. House of St Luke SS16 This collection is a vibrant, heady mix of tropical prints and colours. Afro-Asian headdresses are combined with candy-coloured sport shoes and country club shorts. It’s the kind of psychedelic you’d expect from African expats on the Paris art scene. Martelle Ludik SS16 Dark, brooding fabric, dishevelled layers, tears and largeness create a heavy, gritty and aggressive collection that unashamedly seeks to arouse and challenge anyone who sees it. The collection boldly moves beyond androgyny towards genderqueer and gender-bending. Rogue SS16 The winner of Scouting Menswear AW16 returned with another collection true to the post-apocalyptic, urban inspirations of the brand. The palette and cuts are cool, stark and functional, and this mood is entrenched by the plastic buckle-clip details. Grey concrete and windswept coastlines come to...
The SA Fashion Week SS16 Collections – Part 4: Cape to Cairo
By Ludwig Spies Photos courtesy of planetivan.com The common problem with fashion writing is that we either overlook the most brilliantly conceived and painstakingly produced elements of a collection – or we ramble on, praising, criticising, fainting and gasping to a point where it’s no longer clear whether we’re talking about coats, shoes or an obscure branch of 19th Century philosophy. So we set ourselves this challenge for the SAFW SS16 Collections: reveal the essence of each collection – in less than 50 words. By DS SS16 The high-sheen, sultry outfits printed with West and Central African designs possess all the sensual flamboyance of those regions. Interestingly, the warm, ceramic palette, geometric patterning and some of the sexier cuts would not be out of place in ‘60s America and Britain. Loayo Art & Creations SS16 (Accessories by EG Jewellery) This collection most strongly showcases Arabic influences on African garments. Each ensemble includes a unique headdress carefully assembled to complement the outfit. The Post-Impressionist faces printed on some pieces seem drawn from paintings of island cultures by Gauguin – a social statement, perhaps? African Style Story SS16 A somewhat muted collection that turns away from finery. Simple and plain, the garments carry a strong mood of traditional honour and quiet dignity, and resemble those worn by women along the East African coast. Urban Zulu SS16 The white-cloth pieces of this collection possess all the virginal dignity of traditional Zulu attire. The dark-cloth pieces, however, constitute a gritty glamorous, surreal and brooding contrast that fully explains the name of the label. Liz Ogumbo SS16 Resplendent, regal African ensembles live comfortably next to reimagined colonial safari gear for women. Although the European garments retain their traditional cuts and arrangements, they are Africanised with boldly patterned and coloured fabrics....
The SA Fashion Week SS16 Collections – Part 3: Desmoiselles de Paris
Words by Ludwig Spies Photography by Simone Oranje The common problem with fashion writing is that we either overlook the most brilliantly conceived and painstakingly produced elements of a collection – or we ramble on, praising, criticising, fainting and gasping to a point where it’s no longer clear whether we’re talking about coats, shoes or an obscure branch of 19th Century philosophy. So we set ourselves this challenge for the SAFW SS16 Collections: reveal the essence of each collection – in less than 50 words. Keys Fashion SS16 All the fantasy of the grand Parisian showhouses, and perhaps of some more scandalous establishments, thrives in this collection. Shimmering mermaid dresses, seductive gauze, sequins and feathers were followed by solemn, baroque gold and white pieces. Frivolous indulgence followed by a moral check. Rubicon SS16 (Accessories by Skyler T) It seems ironic that a brand named after something intimately associated with irrevocable change should so excellently create something distinctly from a previous era. The textures and arrangements are faultless ‘30s glamour that seems to say: “You can never be too rich.” ...
The SA Fashion Week SS16 Collections – Part 2: The Lufthansa 1st Best Collections
Words by Ludwig Spies Photography by Simone Oranje The common problem with fashion writing is that we either overlook the most brilliantly conceived and painstakingly produced elements of a collection – or we ramble on, praising, criticising, fainting and gasping to a point where it’s no longer clear whether we’re talking about coats, shoes or an obscure branch of 19th Century philosophy. So we set ourselves this challenge for the SAFW SS16 Collections: reveal the essence of each collection – in less than 50 words. Lumin SS16 A severely chic collection perfect for Ibiza, Camps Bay or a space odyssey. The goggle-lens sunglasses, geometric cuts and pragmatic shoes harked back to Pierre Cardin’s retrofuturistic revolution and the day that video killed the radiostar. Somerset Jane SS16 Tighter, New Look shoulders and magnificent volumes of fabric that envelop the lower half of the wearer created a powerful but calm look. The proportions are perfectly constructed in the tradition of modern womenswear that originated in the previous century. Heart & Heritage SS16 A dainty, romantic collection selected as the winner of the Lufthansa 1st Best Collections. Light strings and airy bows, flowy ribbons and jaunty, flaring seams created a tranquil femininity. Greerkyle SS16 The earnest aesthetic of this collection was somewhat unexpected among its counterparts. The sober cuts, faded palette and hints of utility wear and uniforms remind the viewer of post-war practicality and working women from Sophiatown, c. 1960. T’Niche SS16 Successful experimentation with layers and transparency create an otherworldly collection that drapes on the wearer. Fabric is collected together in one area and spills and billows in...
The SA Fashion Week SS16 Collections – Part 1: The Goddesses
Written by Ludwig Spies and photos by Simone Oranje. The common problem with fashion writing is that we either overlook the most brilliantly conceived and painstakingly produced elements of a collection – or we ramble on, praising, criticising, fainting and gasping to a point where it’s no longer clear whether we’re talking about coats, shoes or an obscure branch of 19th Century philosophy. So we set ourselves this challenge for the SAFW SS16 Collections: reveal the essence of each collection – in less than 50 words. Colleen Eitzen SS16 Beautifully unfettered, midnight-blue pieces clothe the wearer in a simple but grave elegance. Light botanical patterns are perfect for the free-spirited nymph. Lunar SS16 The moon’s different phases, its variations under different skies, could be glimpsed in each of these creations. It’s easy to imagine these gowns on temple priestesses from a time when we were closer to nature. Clive Rundle SS16 Rundle’s geishas do not exist for the entertainment of men. They are more likely to reveal a Samurai sword than a hand-fan. Instead of being tightly wrapped up, the fabric swirls and cascades as they march...
We are looking for interns to join our creative team of ninjas!
We are looking for ambitious, super-talented writers, social media enthusiasts, budding project managers and designers to join our dedicated and talented team in Johannesburg. You must be passionate about telling African stories in digital spaces, and be willing to learn in a fast paced ever-evolving environment. Interns will be compensated for their 3-month tenure with SoulProviders. To apply, please make sure you send the following to Apinda – future@soulproviders.co.za, with the subject line “2016 Internship Application”: Introduction to yourself in the email (covering letter) CV References Creative Portfolio (applicable to designers) Availability...
Proudly brought to you by:
