By Ludwig Spies
The development of strong menswear labels is a notoriously difficult task. In the past, newcomer designers were unlikely to try and enter the fashion industry with menswear collections; it was seen as a conservative category, full of constraints resulting from social and gender conventions. Now, however, it’s the branch of fashion where the most exciting experimentation occurs, and it’s not just about boys in dresses. Trousers, shorts, shirts, suits – all the conventional garment and ensemble types – have experienced reinterpretation and innovation.
Henni de Kock from Rogue Wear
The SAFW Menswear Scout Competition was launched last year to much celebration, and the second installment at the AW showing this year did not disappoint, with the collections taking note of international movements without simply copying and reproducing established international brands. The winner’s title went to Henni de Kock from Rogue Wear, whose total prize package is R85 000 and includes show slots at SAFW SS16/17 and representation by The Fashion Agent. Read about all the Scout shows below. For contact and stockist information, please follow the links included.
INFLUENCED (INF) by Tristan Bain Venn
1-WORD-DESCRIPTION: Metamaterials
DESIGN: 10/10
INNOVATION: 9/10
WEARABILITY: 10/10
Tristan Bain Venn truly realised the name of her brand with a collection that clearly exhibited its inspirations. Metallic sheen, polymer textures and basic geometric proportions conjured up images of futuristic/sci-fi aesthetics, utility wear and functional South and East Asian garments. Bell chose to use neither embellishments nor busy patterns. Instead, her cuts allowed the full drama of the exciting fabrics to unfold. By means of clever design and execution, the fundamental and functional parts of the garments – clamp studs, clasps, collars, drawstrings, stitching and seams – provided each item with characteristic and definitive detail. The collection was simply a triumph of minimalist elegance; sexy like cool metal.
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AGEO by Arnold Phasha
1-WORD-DESCRIPTION: Oceanic
DESIGN: 5/10
INNOVATION: 7/10
WEARABILITY: 6/10
This collection appeared to be inspired by traditional male garments from native South American, North African, Middle-Eastern and Central Asian cultures. The thick knitwear in rough textures particularly evoked images of traditional Afghan attire, while the long cloaks, robes and large-volume scarves granted a certain solemn, ecclesiastical quality to the collection. Although the collection comprised individual garments that were elegantly executed and possessed stimulating detail, it was collectively somewhat lackluster. In some garments the fabric seemed to have reacted unfavourably to the stitching, others lacked shape and some of the textures appeared unattractive. Even the colour palette was questionable, which made one question whether they were in fact designed with a collection in mind.
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RIP ‘N SEW by Gift Senese & Alina Letsholonyane
1-WORD-DESCRIPTION: Carnivalé
DESIGN: 8/10
INNOVATION: 7/10
WEARABILITY: 9/10
The pair from Rip ‘n Sew succeeded in navigating through a brave choice of colours to create a collection that possesses both vibrantly avant-garde and more restrained looks. The overall effect of the brazen patterning and bold colours was a 60s throwback with hints of carnival and circus artistes. Intelligent use of white fabric prevented the bolder elements from becoming distasteful, resulting instead in a very elegant collection that could at certain points even be called chic. The fitted, long-sleeved tops paired with newspaper boy caps created a certain laddish boyishness that was both adorable and sexy.
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ROGUE WEAR by Henni de Kock
1-WORD-DESCRIPTION: Rogueish (well, you know…)
DESIGN: 9/10
INNOVATION: 10/10
WEARABILITY: 8/10
The winning collection featured a group of roamers, rovers, warriors and Robin Hoods. De Kock’s use of layering, draping and wrapping in warm, textured fabrics that appear soft to the touch created a highly appealing collection for winter. His colour palette was spot-on for the season, and he cleverly prioritised the range of colours in each ensemble to prevent chaos. The garments were replete with inspired detail; the leather strapping on the trouser legs (pictured here) truly manifested the renegade character for whom the brand is named. The medieval mood is strongly evoked in the capes, exaggerated collars and leather details, while patchwork trousers (that remind of metal panels) with zip features catapulted the audience into a robotic future. Curiously, these contrasting aesthetics harmonise very well in the collection. If De Kock describes his collection as futuristic dystopian, we call it post-apocalyptic chic.
Web: ROGUE WEAR
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