The SA Fashion Week SS16 Collections – Part 6: Athleisure, Edge & Glamour
The common problem with fashion writing is that we either overlook the most brilliantly conceived and painstakingly produced elements of a collection – or we ramble on, praising, criticising, fainting and gasping to a point where it’s no longer clear whether we’re talking about coats, shoes or an obscure branch of 19th Century philosophy. So we set ourselves this challenge for the SAFW SS16 Collections: reveal the essence of each collection – in less than 50 words. AfrikanSwiss SS16 A hardcore collection with lots of denim, stiffened leather and heavy zipping. Harsh paint splash detail, black ‘oil streaks’, exaggerated patchwork and rough dye patterns on overalls and jumpsuit-styles come together to create blue-collar chic. Esnoko SS16 Relatively plain and conventional arrangements are cut from fabric printed with kaleidoscope patterns. Old school lines and newspaper boy caps contribute to the fanciful mood of the collection and remind of carnivals and colourful townships. Touch of Bling (ToVch) SS16 Looks from 80s New York street-style (think Beastie Boys) gradually merge into sleeker, classical cuts with African hints. Sharp, cool and very much for the night. D.O.P.E. SS16 The perfect streetwear collection for residents who live in cities where temperatures skyrocket in summer. It’s nonchalant, unconcerned and breezy. The racquetball prints on pale colours are fun and pretty without being childish, and the cuts comprise the best of shapely athletic...
The SA Fashion Week SS16 Collections – Part 5: Scouting Menswear in Association with GQ Magazine
Words by Ludwig Spies Photography by Simone Oranje Additional photo edits by Stuart Hendricks The common problem with fashion writing is that we either overlook the most brilliantly conceived and painstakingly produced elements of a collection – or we ramble on, praising, criticising, fainting and gasping to a point where it’s no longer clear whether we’re talking about coats, shoes or an obscure branch of 19th Century philosophy. So we set ourselves this challenge for the SAFW SS16 Collections: reveal the essence of each collection – in less than 50 words. Floyd Avenue SS16 The winner of SS16 Scouting Menswear presented a relaxed collection of manzanilla-toned khaki. Apart from some Indian silhouettes, the palette, overall-style suits and leather strap harness details are solidly located in the safari trunk of a gentleman explorer. Hombré SS16 Poison green, black and snakeskin warn onlookers that a bite from a boy who wears this collection will take you down in 10 minutes. Dangerous, seductive and slick. Non-European SS16 The calm silhouettes and light fabrics contain hints of Asia and Africa, but the collection strongly hearkens back to North America before the arrival of Europeans. Feather accoutrements, and bead and embroidery detail around the collars adorn the garments with a dreamy, mythic quality. Zamaswazi SS16 Zooty blocks and strips of colour, pleats, grid patterning, and unusual Springbok skin detail offer the perfect ensemble to the modern dandy. It’s uptown funk with a slightly inflated ego. House of St Luke SS16 This collection is a vibrant, heady mix of tropical prints and colours. Afro-Asian headdresses are combined with candy-coloured sport shoes and country club shorts. It’s the kind of psychedelic you’d expect from African expats on the Paris art scene. Martelle Ludik SS16 Dark, brooding fabric, dishevelled layers, tears and largeness create a heavy, gritty and aggressive collection that unashamedly seeks to arouse and challenge anyone who sees it. The collection boldly moves beyond androgyny towards genderqueer and gender-bending. Rogue SS16 The winner of Scouting Menswear AW16 returned with another collection true to the post-apocalyptic, urban inspirations of the brand. The palette and cuts are cool, stark and functional, and this mood is entrenched by the plastic buckle-clip details. Grey concrete and windswept coastlines come to...
The SA Fashion Week SS16 Collections – Part 4: Cape to Cairo
By Ludwig Spies Photos courtesy of planetivan.com The common problem with fashion writing is that we either overlook the most brilliantly conceived and painstakingly produced elements of a collection – or we ramble on, praising, criticising, fainting and gasping to a point where it’s no longer clear whether we’re talking about coats, shoes or an obscure branch of 19th Century philosophy. So we set ourselves this challenge for the SAFW SS16 Collections: reveal the essence of each collection – in less than 50 words. By DS SS16 The high-sheen, sultry outfits printed with West and Central African designs possess all the sensual flamboyance of those regions. Interestingly, the warm, ceramic palette, geometric patterning and some of the sexier cuts would not be out of place in ‘60s America and Britain. Loayo Art & Creations SS16 (Accessories by EG Jewellery) This collection most strongly showcases Arabic influences on African garments. Each ensemble includes a unique headdress carefully assembled to complement the outfit. The Post-Impressionist faces printed on some pieces seem drawn from paintings of island cultures by Gauguin – a social statement, perhaps? African Style Story SS16 A somewhat muted collection that turns away from finery. Simple and plain, the garments carry a strong mood of traditional honour and quiet dignity, and resemble those worn by women along the East African coast. Urban Zulu SS16 The white-cloth pieces of this collection possess all the virginal dignity of traditional Zulu attire. The dark-cloth pieces, however, constitute a gritty glamorous, surreal and brooding contrast that fully explains the name of the label. Liz Ogumbo SS16 Resplendent, regal African ensembles live comfortably next to reimagined colonial safari gear for women. Although the European garments retain their traditional cuts and arrangements, they are Africanised with boldly patterned and coloured fabrics....
The SA Fashion Week SS16 Collections – Part 3: Desmoiselles de Paris
Words by Ludwig Spies Photography by Simone Oranje The common problem with fashion writing is that we either overlook the most brilliantly conceived and painstakingly produced elements of a collection – or we ramble on, praising, criticising, fainting and gasping to a point where it’s no longer clear whether we’re talking about coats, shoes or an obscure branch of 19th Century philosophy. So we set ourselves this challenge for the SAFW SS16 Collections: reveal the essence of each collection – in less than 50 words. Keys Fashion SS16 All the fantasy of the grand Parisian showhouses, and perhaps of some more scandalous establishments, thrives in this collection. Shimmering mermaid dresses, seductive gauze, sequins and feathers were followed by solemn, baroque gold and white pieces. Frivolous indulgence followed by a moral check. Rubicon SS16 (Accessories by Skyler T) It seems ironic that a brand named after something intimately associated with irrevocable change should so excellently create something distinctly from a previous era. The textures and arrangements are faultless ‘30s glamour that seems to say: “You can never be too rich.” ...
Inside A Mind of design: Meet our new junior designer, Cookie Mylo
By Lindelwa R SoulProviders recently added a new designer to the team; Mahlohonolo Tshangela. The other day last week I stole him from his busy day to have a chat about designer things and his bad movie-watching habits. What do you like to watch? First of all, he does not like to watch movies (you will find out in Q3 why), he watches a lot of music videos, and TV shows “…old stuff.” he says, like Scrubs & Supernatural. He spends most of his TV-time watching tutorials, about things. Favourite books… His favourite books are “Screw it, Let’s do it” by Sir Richard Branson & “The Soul Connection” by Anne Jones. I had to Google the latter publication, and just as I suspected it’s a one of those ‘get in touch with your higher self’ guides. Lo walks around the office with an air of calm around him, no surprise he’s about meditation authors. Do you like eBooks or paper backs? “As a designer you’re facing a computer screen all day…” – I expected that he would be a digital reader, that as a digital designer he is immune to the computer screen-induced nausea and headaches. It’s nice to know there are still people who love the smell of paper along with the words. “Print is different” Does being a designer influence your choice of magazines, books and/or the types of movies you watch? T’was a definite yes on the magazines, he reads magazines which are informative and relevant to his interests in respect to what he does. On book choices he said he is “…directed by the heart and soul of the book.” “I don’t watch movies ‘cause I have an eye for these things Do you enjoy being a [graphic] designer? “I find that the term ‘designer’ is [a limited label] just another one of the boxes we’ve been put into. To me it’s just another hat on my head. I prefer to be [referred to as] an artist who delivers his work through design. It’s the hate which keeps my tummy full,” and then he whispers “…Can I say that?” “Being an artist is one of the greatest things ever; your mind is constantly growing. There are things which influence [me] and I become excited to try them in my next design. You burn passion always looking for new ways to do things. Get inspired. It’s really nice seeing great art things and it motivates [me] to look for greater solutions.” He said to me, artists are like onions – they have so many layers – and as you peel away at each of them,...
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