The Only Quick Guide to visiting Johannesburg (Part2)
Johannesburg, Jo’burg, Jozi, let’s face it – the city is one major sensory overload for any visitor – we hope you’ve read our introductory article ‘Unlikely Johannesburg (part one)’ for tips on how to handle her curves and moods during this FIFA World Cup (and any other time you’d like to visit)…If so, you’ll be feeling confident and right at home on her golden streets. And soon you’ll discover that this hidden jewel of a metropolis is not quite the dragon everyone makes her out to be, but instead that she deserves to be listed as one of the world’s greatest cities! A lot of people have worked really hard to bring out the best in our city and we salute and thank them for that. Sharpile! Go on now Joburg… Represent!
We’ve made visiting Johannesburg easy for you and put together a quick INSIDER’S guide based on what we love to do – this is how we like to spend our time in Jozi and we hope you’ll enjoy our favourite spots. We won’t send you anywhere we don’t love. Enjoy! Our top entries in each category are marked in Red.
Thanks to all our friends and Representahs for the heads up. Contributors list at the bottom of this article – follow local Joburgers on Twitter. Feel free to add any other ideas to the comments section – HAVE FUN! And please let us know if you have found this useful!
Basic rules:
Don’t drink and drive – rather take a taxi – we always use Roses – the car may feel like it’s on its last legs as it rattles you around, but your driver will get you there and have a story to share. If you’re nervous about going somewhere at night, take a taxi. It’s simple. Call them and get a quote and an arrival time – it’s so worth the money not to have to drive and just enjoy the parties. You can also use a brand new homegrown business service called Jozi Chaperones… support local business and get a passionate Joburg ambassador to show you the city. Get a local simcard – we’re not promising it will be easy but we have 4 providers: MTN, Vodacom, CellC and Virgin Mobile. It gets cold at night and some mornings although the afternoons can warm up- take a jersey or jacket and boots or shoes warmer than flipflops. It’s winter now! Suburbs to avoid unless with a guide – Hillbrow, Yeoville and parts of the inner city as well as visibly impoverished areas where people may need what you have. (Sorry guys in these areas, but we need to be upfront with our guests – no disrespect intended). Be on the lookout and be alert – if it feels dodgy, it probably is – use your INTUITION. If lost or in need of guidance, stop at a GARAGE (Petrol station) and ask for help or directions they will help you or other drivers will. If someone tries to wave you down or stop you – don’t. Someone else can. Besides the smiling salespeople selling stuff or begging at the traffic lights (aka robots) if someone comes running up to your car and looks angry – put foot 🙂 . Try to always park your car near a carguard (guys in flourescent jackets waving you into the parking) and tip them nicely. Don’t leave valuables in your car. The emergency number is 10111 if you’re in need. HIV/Aids is a reality in our country, we don’t have sex without protection and neither should you. Tips for restaurant service are expected and highly appreciated – 10 to 15% a good guide depending on the service you get of course 🙂
OK so now after that boring stuff… time for the fun!
Websites – there are loads of websites out there that will help guide your visit but this would be our pick. You can also search on Represent, we started writing about Joburg and her wonders in 2004, so you’re bound to find something.
City of Johannesburg – a favourite of ours, we’ve been fans for years
JHB Live – they set the tone years ago for where and how to live it up in Jozi – for any info you need – great newsletter
Jozikids.co.za – the only place to look for kids entertainment et al
Thunda.com – parties and photos after the parties
Joburg.co.za – hard-working team – sign up for their newsletter
Jobusy – a new website promoting the quirky side of Jozi – great reference for many of our hangouts
Joburg Style – a quarterly magazine
Unlike.net – ‘definitive city guide for a mobile generation’ slick new site featuring all the cities in SA
Rage.co.za – the mother of urban culture in Jozi still going strong
JohannesburgDailyPhoto – a visionary blog showing pics of the city – every day
Secret Joburg – part of the city of Johannesburg – hidden gems in Joburg
Colourful suburbs you can walk around in or spend the day relaxing at a sidewalk cafe or restaurant:
Greenside, Parktown North, Vilakazi st Soweto, Newtown in the city, Parkhurst, Melville, Rosebank, Milpark, Parkview, Norwood, Kensington (lower Queen St)…
Our favourite places to eat, chill, drink, people-watch, places to go… and shop at!
Breakfast and Coffee
Service Station at Bamboo near Melville
Parkhurst Mugg n Bean
Parktown Quarter – Lulu – Corner 3rd & 7th Avenue, Parktown North
Europa Melrose Arch
Salvation Café at 44 Stanley Avenue in Milpark
After a rough night, turn to South Africa’s version of a greasy spoon – head to any Wimpy – they’re everywhere. IMPI!
Coffee and patisserie
Any Vida e Caffe we’re fans of the one in Rosebank – esp when there’s live jazz like Marcus Wyatt on a Sunday 10:30 (we hope they still rocking the jazz)
Fournos on Jan Smuts- ok it’s in a parking lot, but it’s often en route to somewhere else you need to go &worth it
Bean There – Stanley Avenue in Milpark – We love everything about Stanley Avenue – this comes highly recommended
Wolves… it’s both a coffee shop and a bar catering to the hipsters of the advertising crowd – in Illovo – cupcake heaven and live music on Thursdays – let the afternoon blend into night
Lunch
Lucky Bean in Melville – used to be called Soulsa – great food, great service, great location. Melville is still our best people-watching suburb in Jozi
Primi Piatti – Rosebank – The Zone – the pizzas, the salads, the cocktails…make sure your table is on the outside!
44 Stanley – any of the restaurants – great place to eat, shop and chill
Parktown North – Moemas Part of the great Parktown Quarter
Moyo Zoo Lake – this is an absolute must-do – relax in their sumptuosness
Newtown – Sophiatown or The Bistro – fabulous spot downtown, right next to a fanpark and in the market theatre precinct – you wanna book! Do yourselves a favour and go by bus or taxi to avoid the traffic.
Soweto – Nambithas on Vilakazi St or Roots in Jabavu
Arts on Main – THE place to be right now for anyone into the arts, culture and inner city – Arts On Main parking is absolutely free. Parking is at the Fox Street entrance. It’s in the gorgeously revamped inner city – follow their directions to get their quickly and avoid getting lost downtown – or go by taxi. Try Canteen for lunch… delicieux!
Greenside – Doppio Zero popular for brunch and lunch – stroll into Greenside when you’re done
Supper
Melville – The loft
By the same owners as The Loft – The Attic in Parkhurst
44 Stanley – any of the restaurants
Trabella – great pizza in Illovo
So Yum for Dim Sum in Hyde Park
Tasha’s in Athol Square, Sandton
Steak – we love The Local Grill – Parktown North and Hurlingham
Rosebank Mall – Steak at the Grill House – famous for their steaks
Not to forget the Butcher Shop on Sandton Square for a real bloody experience
Italian Food MastrAntonio – any branch but we love the Illovo one
Greek food has to be Plaka in Illovo.. yum yum
Indian food- go to Fordsburg for the true South African Indian experience – can be tricky to find – park in Melville go by taxi
Sushi – Bite in Greenside
Chinese – Fong Mei – Derrick Avenue in Cyrildene‘s ‘New China Town’ and on Rivonia Boulevard
Cocktails and drinks
Melville – Six for Cocktails – and the rest will follow
Westcliff – Sundowners at the Westcliff – tres chic and expensive but so worth it – book ahead!
Illovo – Rose Boys – cheesy fun dinner-into-going out mood according to Jobusy – we’d book
Cocoon Lounge – Sandton – ‘Sensational’ Sandton IT crowd cigar lounge
Newscafe where drinks always turn into parties – go to any of them – Rosebank and Sandton and Melville are the surefire party ones
If you’re more of a pub person – try the Jolly Roger in Parkhurst – it’s a popular singles village pubby kinda place that goes a little loco
Zoo Lake Bowling Club – an old school indoor and outdoor venue for a cold cheap beer – go for a walk in the park!
Kitcheners Carvery Bar – cool party spot in Braamfontein – check out the gig guides to find out what’s happening or pop in for a drink
The Bar at The Attic in Parkhurst great for drinks and or dinner!
AND keeping it in the family, from the makers of The Loft and The Attic, we bring you The Office in Greenside
Gin in Greenside – hip hangout for drinks and dinner
Fino Bar and Restaurant – Parktown North – scrumptious cocktails that lead you into an equally yummy dinner
Capello‘s in Lonehill – cocktails into supper…
Live Music, Clubbing, Comedy and party
If you really want to go and PARTAY, read the best Jozi gig guide JHB Live for parties and live music around the city
Blues Room Brilliant venue to catch some of the hottest SA acts live
Moloko for moving and shaking
Radium Beer Hall – infamous jazz venue – slightly dodgy street go in a group and/or a taxi
Latinova dance dance dance
Taboo Dance pose check out the hot decor and equally hot people
Zouk We hear it rocks – young hot pumping
Capital Music Café drinks, djs, dancefloor hots up
Comedy Underground at Cool Runnings in Melville every Sunday night – hilarious
Ko’spotong bar and live music venue in Melville, Ghandi Square and Newtown … take your pick! Phone ahead to find out what’s happening where!
The Bank – Rosebank – Sexy party place easy to get to
Takeaways
Mr Delivery – a world class South African-born service – make sure your host or hotel gives you the booklet so you can order in from all the restaurants in your ‘hood
Nandos – now available all over the world
Steers – should be available all over the world
Pizza Perfect – the best pizzas
Chicken Licken – the best chicken
Debonairs – the second-best pizzas
Lucky Moo in Ghandi Square for fabulous take aways downtown
Shopping
Sandton City – it’s huge it’s impressive and it has the square to laze at … with Madiba’s statue in it
Rosebank Precinct – Rosebank Mall which is over the road from The Zone
Fourways Design Quarter (fabulous lunch and dinner venue) Mall and Crossing
Oriental Plaza in Fordsburg – for all things Indian – don’t miss the Samoosas and great fabrics – quilters take note!
Campus Square it’s not as bling as the big guys Rosebank, Fourways and Sandton, but being near the universities it’s got some great little bargain shops and a nice youthful vibe – we love it
Supermarkets
Woolworths is your friend – we bow down to woolworths – try all their food – it’s all good.
Pick n Pay is your next best friend – cheaper than Woolies but some good things going on too.
Spar great biltong and they’re everywhere
Shoprite/Checkers ‘lower prices you can always trust’ – they said it best!
Brands or shops you must visit or things you must buy
Seringa Living Gallery and Tyrone Ave in Parkview for Authentic African Art and Art Africa next door at number 62
YDE – Rosebank or Sandton Young Designers Emporium – buy clothes from a range of excellent South African young designers
Thesis – Soweto – local designers
Stoned Cherrie – Rosebank – must buy something from here ladies!
Black Coffee – Bamboo – get something special and designer
Love Jozi – Arts on Main
The Space – great gift ideas and clothes
Big Blue – superbly comical tshirts and quirky gifts
Sowearto – The Zone or Campus Square – homegrown labels
Exclusive Books – best book and coffee shops in South Africa
Deerhunter in Greenside
Buy the Saturday Star newspaper on a Saturday – it has all the properties for sale in Joburg and surrounds.
Markets – food and crafts
Rosebank Market –Every Sunday and the African Market is open every day
Bruma Market – can be kitch but can be fab – lots of crafts
Farmers Market at Bamboo in Melville – first Saturday of every month, from 07h00 till sold out.
Jozi Food Market in Parktown North at the Parktown Quarter – Every Saturday from 8:30am – 1:30pm
Melrose Arch Mediterreanean Market Saturday 9am – 2pm
Killarney Mall Wholesome Organic Food Market Thursday from 9.00-3.00
Bryanston Organic and Natural Market Thursday and Saturday 9.00 am to 3.00 pm
Now the shopping and eating are out the way, what about some culture, arts, history, outdoors and a bit of nature…
Art Galleries – Momos, Goodman, Circa Everard Read and David Krut are all within walking distance – if you’re up for a walk! Or a short car ride.
Momos – great place to catch the hottest contemporary SA artists
Goodman – the godfather of Jozi galleries
David Krut – small but dynamite – over the road from the Goodman
Everard Read Gallery a mama of a South African gallery
Circa – brand new architectural splendour
JAG – it’s in a slightly ‘hot’ area so you wanna drive by taxi or with a guide or very fast 🙂 but so worth the visit
AfroNova – Newtown – we love it – opposite the Market Theatre entrance
Views, Historical places and Museums
Top of Africa at the Carlton Centre – the ONLY place to get the best view in Africa – it’s in the buzzing inner city and can be a little hard to find. 150 Commissioner Street go into the underground parking into the shopping centre and ask for directions to the Top of Africa. But nothing beats shooting up to the 50th floor in a few seconds to see all four sides of the city and beyond. We’d say go by Roses Taxi – they know the way.
Constitution Hill aka Conhill on the border of Parktown and Braamfontein, if you don’t make the Carlton Centre there are some nice views of Hillbrow from Conhill and lots more to visit and see.
Apartheid Museum – GO GO GO – book book book
Hector Pieterson Museum well worth a visit even if you don’t have time to go into the museum
Kliptown – Walter Sisulu Square and the Holiday Inn – try to get here if you can.
Origins Centre at Wits University- for lovers of the origins of humankind (love the architecture and design)
Nelson Mandela Bridge – just drive over it! It’s not huge, but it’s ours.
The revamped Alexander Theatre in Braamfontein
Ghandi square – the main bus terminal in the city – catch a Rea Vaya bus all the way there and have an afternoon drink on the square to see the energy of the inner city
Mary Fitzgerald Square in Newtown – home to a fanpark for 30 000 fans, the legendary Market Theatre, lots of restaurants (see above) art galleries and Museum Africa to name but a few highlights of this buzzing downtown precinct
Alexandra and Soweto tours – MUST DO
Relaxation and Spas
Magaliesburg: Mangwanani Spa… divine – book your place and catch the bus from Fourways
Renue – best reflexology in Joburg – book ahead
Aura skin care – fabulous facials and anything else you need doing – also v private61 7th ave park town north. 011 442 3926
Life day spa Fourways – good location
Woodlands – Magaliesburg – very popular too
Marrakesh– it lingers on and on – Parkhurst
Green in the city
Emmarentia Dam and Botanic Gardens
Walking Tours of Johannesburg
Melville Koppies Nature Reserve amazing walks and views – go in pairs or a group
Johannesburg Zoo – as far as ZOO’s go – it’s great!
Sundowners at Northcliff hill take your own drinks!
Zoo Lake – one lap around the lake is 1km for the walkers out there – don’t forget to pop into Moyo’s and the Bowling Club
Montecasino Bird Park not many people know about this gem – nice for kids
Just Out of Joburg – Nature, animals, history and the beach
Dewildt Cheetah Centre Make sure to book ahead
Rhino and Lion Park When the magnificent Kruger Park is too far to visit, the Rhino and Lion park is waiting for you!
Elephant Sanctuary – Hartebeespoort learn about Elephants up close – but don’t get too close like these guys did
Maropeng the official visitor’s centre for The Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site
Hartebeespoort Dam about an hour’s gorgeous drive from Johannesburg – well worth a visit just to wind along the road and visit the many attractions on the way, make sure to get back to Joburg before nightfall, the road can be hazardous at night. On your way out, pop into the Nirox Sculpture Park… we’re hearing great things about it.
Sun City It’s a good 2.5 to 3 hour drive so you wanna try spend the night nearby or give yourselves good time to get back in daytime – same road as Harties above. The weather should, however be warmer there!
Part three… will feature a few short itineraries from this list… which continues to be a work in progress! Enjoy!
Contributors – thank you all once again! Sharpile! Represent!
A special thank you to Bradley Kirshenbaum… We Love YOU!
@Ms_legend @Hypress @_Thanda_ @fcfortune @gussilber @jennyinjozi @annaleighv @ericmotloung @gilliananstey @gnva @RGDaugherty @varandunil@mathoto_m @MelanieMinnaar
@khwezimagwaza
Elmarie Davidson
David Tait
Nicky Gules
Khanyi Fani
Lee Cahill
